Key ingredients: human bone marrow stem cell conditioned media, niacinamide, cetyl ethylhexanoate | Type of growth factor: human | Fragrance-Free: yes | Who it’s for: people with fine lines, wrinkles, or uneven skin texture
Frequently Asked Questions
Do growth-factor serums really work?
“Data suggest that well-formulated, high-quality growth factor serums can deliver measurable benefits,” says Dr. Murphy-Rose. “With consistent use, these serums can lead to noticeable improvements in overall skin quality, making them a valuable tool in skin care.” Alas, they don’t work overnight. “Like any skin-care product, growth-factor serums should be used for at least two to three months before you can accurately decide if they are effective—or not—for your specific skin concern,” says Dr. Camp. “Consistency is key in treating the skin with a new active ingredient, such as a growth factor.”
According to Dr. Amin, “It is also important to note that not everyone will respond the same way to these serums, and factors like genetics, lifestyle, and diet can influence the outcome.”
Is growth factor better than retinol?
“Growth-factor serums stimulate the skin’s natural cellular repair processes, promoting rejuvenation with minimal irritation, making them a great option for sensitive or reactive skin types,” says Dr. Murphy-Rose. “However, they tend to be quite expensive. Retinol, derived from vitamin A, accelerates cell turnover, smooths fine lines, and stimulates collagen and elastin production. Unlike growth factors, retinol often causes skin irritation and requires a gradual introduction into your routine. Both can support skin hydration and are powerful tools for addressing signs of aging, but their best use depends on your skin’s needs and tolerance.”
According to Dr. Amin, the decision to go retinol or growth factor depends on what you’re looking for in a skin-care routine. “For improving skin texture, retinol may be more effective in the long term due to its ability to promote cell turnover and collagen production,” she says. “Multiple studies have shown the efficacy of retinol and retinoids in reducing fine lines and wrinkles. For very sensitive skin that cannot tolerate retinol, growth factors may be more suitable, especially if you’re looking for something less likely to cause irritation.”
Meet the Experts
- Mina Amin, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in L.A.
- Brendan Camp, MD, a double board-certified dermatologist and dermatopathologist in Clifton, New Jersey and Midtown East, Commack, and Hampton Bays, New York
- Rishi Chopra, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York and the Hamptons.
- Omer Ibrahim, MD. a board-certified dermatologist in Chicago.
- Lana Kashlan, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in Chicago and Dubai.
- Blair Murphy-Rose, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in NYC and Newport Beach, California
- Anil Shah, MD, a board-certified facial plastic surgeon in Chicago
How we test and review products
When Allure tests a product, our editors look at it from every angle in an effort to best serve you. We review ingredients, scrutinize brand claims, and, when necessary, examine peer-reviewed scientific and medical studies. In addition to testing each and every product that’s included in each and every review, we rely on experts who shape their fields, including dermatology, cosmetic chemistry, and medicine, to help us vet the ingredients and formulas.
