Olivier Rousteing has enjoyed 15 years, 13 as creative director, inscribing his handwriting on the history of the house of Balmain. Only now, however, has he picked up his pen and got scribbling. “Yes, that’s my writing,” he confirmed of the elegant cursive script inked via craft across these men’s and women’s pre-collections. “When I was at school the calligraphy classes were one of my favorites.”
Here his text served to underline signatures both long-established and seasonal. In large-lettered reproduction—‘Je t’aime’—it snaked across the front of a trompe l’oeil shadowed, nude-effect crystal embroidered dress. In brass-toned metal brooches it gleamed on the chest of a snow-white boucle jacket. In intarsia it ran across the chest of a monochrome piped-sleeve t-shirt blouse with sportswear detailing, as well as a collarless tailored jacket. It ran riot over peplum buttressed dresses, chic loose suiting and shirting, and swishily lapelled outerwear. In menswear it also featured in metal bracelets, cropped bikers, and a tunic top in which Rousteing’s nib simultaneously marked the ‘t’ of his declaration of love and the deep-V neckline of the garment. The ‘A’ in ‘Amour’ fulfilled the inverse role in a marvelously regal and heavily scripted coat near the close. ‘Toujours’ wrote Rousteing across the edge of the crystal-etched torso trompe l’oeil that covered the right side of the closing jacket.
This penmanship narrated a collection that was bursting with witty self-reflexive detail. Pin cushions were reproduced as amulets, jewelry, and hardware on shoes. Tape measures were reimagined as spiraling metal earrings and curved neckpieces. Rousteing introduced bags fronted with sweatshirt neckline openings, leather bikers spliced with denim truckers, and double-neck sweaters. On our call Rousteing said his billet-doux was designed to be read as an exploration of “my love for Balmain and my love for the atelier. When I designed it I was also thinking about when you are married for such a long time and renew your vows to show everyone you still feel that love. This is Balmain, and this is my letter of love.” Consider his message signed, sealed, and delivered: that Rousteing has left his mark on Balmain is beyond dispute.
