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“A designer must be mindful of climate change,” mentioned Ermanno Scervino as he went through his new pre-collection. “I get the poetic needs, the quest for modernity, but we work for people. And the fact that I built this wardrobe on many small pieces is due to global warming, too.” Mixing sophisticated minimalism with urban energy, the Italian creative evoked Helmut Newton and Peter Lindbergh’s dreamscapes to draw on his idea of a woman who, shifting between self-control and a natural sense of freedom, wears lingerie underneath shearlings.
Scervino used cashmere for this season’s lingerie, winking at Elizabeth Taylor’s influence. “Witnessing her acting in a slip-dress struck me,” he explained. With femininity being both his starting point and final goal, the knitted shearling and a guipure detailed shirt further emphasized the balance of contrasts. The construction of the garments revealed itself through research on proportions, with the overlapping volume of oversized coats becoming fitted dresses or miniskirts, and hints of masculinity rounding out the look.
The color palette too played up the concept of polarity, moving from velvety blacks to optical whites, accentuating the three-dimensionality of the fabrics. Herringbone wool, tweed, and double mélange were reinterpreted with a softness that caressed the body, and transformed materials into carved 3D surfaces.“I love high heels with a long dress, but I also like loafers and socks, somewhere between sport and elegance,” Scervino concluded.
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