Fashion designer Deepika Govind says her entry into the world of fashion was quite accidental. “I never planned it. I did my Masters in Economics, and wanted to join the civil services. It was while preparing for the civils that I heard about a design contest being held by the National Institute of Technology (NIFT), Bangalore.”
The Bengaluru-based designer recently came up with the collection Fragile Flyers, whichcelebrates the delicate beauty of sustainable fabrics through bold threadwork embroidery.
Crafted from fabrics woven in association with TENCEL™ Luxe, the biodegradable fibre is derived from sustainably sourced wood pulp. “The fragility of the fabric inspired me to keep the colours natural. A delicate, fairy-like look resonates throughout the collection.”
Saris are the centerpiece of her collection with feminine flouncy tops and blouses that can be paired with high-waisted, wide-leg trousers. Like all her collections, Deepika blends sustainability with Indian craftsmanship to create pieces that are timeless and yet exude modernity.
One stitch at a time
“I used to do a lot of stitching and tailoring — my mother had made sure I learnt these skills as a girl. On a whim, I participated in the contest and fell in love with it.”
Deepika Govind
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Special Arrangement
For the contest, Deepika created a collection inspired by Mesopotamian culture, “The whole process was beautiful and interesting; learning about that culture, their process of design, the motifs. It was also quite a humbling experience — when you meet the weavers and tailors, you learn about the amount of work that goes into creating a collection.”
Participating in the contest made her realise how designing was her calling. “As a young girl I used to enjoy making outfits and jewellery for my friends. I always had that innovative spirit, so it came naturally to me.”
Ever since she started out, Deepika fell in love with Indian craftsmanship and weaving techniques, which clearly reflects in her collections. “My tryst with handloom began in 1999, as I watched a weaver use a double treadle loom, creating layered fabrics with checks. Dyeing it right there in pure indigo and working with an artiste to create hand-painted kalamkari, was the start of my passion for weaving.”
Deepika has since experimented with different Indian fabrics and patterns. “The 2000s brought the excitement of working with Khadi blended with another natural fibre called Tencel, to create a cosmopolitan fabric which was later showcased at the 2001 Lakme Fashion Week.”
From Deepika Govind’s sustainable fashion collection
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement
Her 2012 Lakme Fashion Week collection, titled Pop Patola,was a monumental one. Patola is a double ikat handwoven textile that originates from Patan, a city in Gujarat. “It was such an astounding experience, I even travelled to interior Gujarat at that time and a lot of my work was inspired by the intricate jali darwazas (latticework windows).”
Deepika has been a huge advocate for sustainability; for her 2011 collection titled Eri the Peace Silk: A Traveller’s Collection, she used softened coarse Eri silk, an eco-fibre where the silkworm is not killed, to create a line of stoles, shawls and saris.
Stories from the ground
While her collections reflect Indian craftsmanship, Deepika believes there is always a story behind her collections, stories that are nothing less than adventures. “When I went see the Muga silk cocoon farms and weaving centres in Udalguri, a small district in Assam, I was shocked to find myself in a farm where ULFA members had just surrendered and plans for their rehabilitation were being discussed by the officials.”
“Another time, I was visiting Eri weaving centres in Kokrajar, Bodoland. We were on our way to Kokrajhar when rebel groups stopped the train we were on, and everyone had to walk to find alternate transport.”
From Deepika Govind’s sustainable fashion collection
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement
While some incidents can be unnerving, Deepika has delightful ones too. “I enjoy my trips to Gujarat where I can travel even as late as 12pm. I stayed at my weavers’ homes while creating the Pop Patola collection and have been a part of their functions.”
However, many traditional practices are fading into obscurity, with the influx of modernisation. While there has been some revival in recent times, numerous crafts are on the brink of extinction. “In some families, the next generation don’t want to take up this traditional work; they would rather work blue collar jobs than take up this craft as they feel there is a lack of respect and income in this line of work,” says Deepika.
Despite the poor press, one piece of advice she gives aspiring designers is, “Believe in your creativity. You must remember there is a market for every creative expression — identify these markets and pursue them persistently.”
From Deepika Govind’s sustainable fashion collection
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement
Published – January 07, 2025 12:31 pm IST
