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Norma Kamali’s business runs like a well-oiled machine, but the designer has decided she doesn’t want to coast into the future. Rather, in the interest of shaking things up a bit, she approached her pre-fall offering from a new angle: “It’s not a collection; it’s just looks,” she said on a walk-through. “The thing I like the best is that it’s so disconnected from last season. ‘Disconnect’ sounds sort of negative, but I like that people will see the collection and think, ‘Oh, this is something I haven’t seen or this is something I want to try.” Not all elements of the lineup were “random,” however. Kamali is actively engaged with her customers; they wanted a rework of a lacy vintage jumpsuit Sabrina Carpenter wore, and she obliged.
The unifying element is the strong, straightforward palette of red, white, and black, with touches of metallic. There are themes as well, such as a bias plaid and a red rose print; Kamali has you mostly covered (there are lots of sheer options) whether you are planning a pool party or a City Hall wedding. Peter Pan collars, a jumpsuit with a sheer-striped top and patch pockets, and mitred checks conjure 1940s American fashion and some of its utilitarian elements. Yet, like others in the industry, Kamali has an itch for glamour. To satisfy it, the models wear Marilyn Monroe and Jane Russeell-inspired wigs in cartoon red that really add life to the lookbook.
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