Leading the best-dressed guests at the 2024 Fashion Awards were the actress Gemma Chan and model Lara Stone in lingerie-frilled bodycon numbers from Self-Portrait and Christopher Kane’s recent collaboration. The line was released in November as the first of Self-Portrait’s Residency program, and has been a serious hit among fashion insiders, a phenomenon that has, in turn, cast a halo of cool around its mastermind Han Chong. In fact, it was a fashion journalist who the designer seemed most thrilled to have dressed that night. She walked the red carpet, nine months pregnant, in a stretch-knit column with scrunchie cut-outs. “It was so empowering to see,” the designer said. “Women are amazing.”
Christopher Kane’s capsule exceeded all sales targets, but that’s beside the point – its most valuable outcome has been returning a sense of creative freedom to Self-Portrait. “The fashion system is getting tired, but this lets us step outside its boundaries,” Chong said. “I want Self-Portrait to make the cash so the Residencies can remain passion projects.” The designer’s pre-fall collection will doubtless fund a couple more, offering an accessible, mix-and-match wardrobe to the professional woman who loves fashion, but has less and less time to plan her outfits. Houndstooth blazers are easily paired with bubble-hemmed minis in lilac and burnt-orange taffeta, cropped trench coats with sheer-knit maxi dresses, and swim-inspired bandeaus with denim cargo skirts. Shortcuts to looking good in a flash, most of the pieces can be shoved into a carry-on and spring back to life without a single crease.
Rhinestone-embellished slips and cowl-neck dresses with tactile leopard-print surfaces will do well on the events circuit, but Chong has, for the most part, dialed down his signature razzle-dazzle. “The girls don’t want to dress up as much,” he said. “Our interns go out partying in hotpants and a hoodie.” It’s a high-low approach to twisting codes that informed the introduction of Self-Portrait’s debut windbreaker—styled here with a glossy kick-pleat skirt—drop-shouldered bombers layered over pussy bow dresses and costume jewels with slogan tank tops. This treads a fine line: “If it’s too fashionable, it’s not relatable,” Chong said. “I want to inspire, of course, but it needs to be achievable.”
