Normal-to-dry skin types benefit most from this foundation hack as it relies on deeply hydrating toners and essences, though those with oily and combination skin (like myself) can give it a go too—just opt for oil-free formulas. Martinez also cautions that this might not be best for longwear as “changing the formula can decrease a foundation’s wear time and will not last well for someone with oily skin.”
The Foundation
To try for yourself, you need a foundation. “Use an oil-free, matte, or semi-matte foundation,” Biga advises. “Water-based foundations are ideal to avoid separation or excessive shine.” She recommends the Haus Labs Triclone Skin Tech or Giorgio Armani’s Luminous Silk. “This technique works well with thinner liquid foundations,” says Martinez, making Pat McGrath Labs’s Sublime Perfection, or Face & Body formulations by Dior and MAC Cosmetics excellent picks, too.
The Toner/Essence
Of equal importance is the toner or essence you choose. Use the one you’re most likely to reach for in your skin-care routine. A la Bieber, the Rhode Glazing Milk and Fluid deliver weightless hydration for all skin types, though the latter has a gel-serum like texture. Those in need of deeper nourishment will appreciate Laneige’s Cream Skin or Ilia’s The Base Face Milk, whereas oily and or combination skin should look to Violette_FR’s Boum-Boum Milk or The Ordinary’s Saccharomyces Ferment 30% Milky Toner which skews more oil-free and mattifying.
With your products ready, you’ll be mixing the foundation and essence. How much product you’ll use is dependent on your desired coverage and skin type. Really dry skin types or someone looking for a natural finish might want a 1:1 ratio of milky toner to foundation. For a better moisture balance and to better maintain the integrity of the foundation, you’ll do two parts foundation to one part toner, per Biga. For the most coverage, do three parts foundation to one part toner. The less toner you use, the more coverage you’ll get.
Combine both products to your liking—on your hands or a metal palette if you have one—then apply to skin. The mixture does feel quite creamy so some, like Bieber, will enjoy blending with the fingers, though Biga says applying with a small fluffy synthetic brush (like Real Techniques 402 Setting Brush) delivers a similar natural finish. For a more airbrushed finish, buff the foundation-toner mixture in with a round, fluffy brush like BK Beauty’s #106 or a damp sponge. “For extra coverage, use a small eyeshadow brush to apply concealer where needed, ensuring the rest of the skin remains untouched for a seamless look,” celebrity makeup artist Joel Vasquez says. Lastly, rely on a featherweight veil of setting powder strategically placed to the T-zone and oily areas to control excess shine then mist on a dose of setting spray.
