A Look at Brunello Cucinelli’s New Fragrance Collection

MILAN — Brunello Cucinelli has expanded its fragrance offering with six new scents grouped in an olfactive collection dubbed “Incanti Poetici,” or “Poetic Enchantments” in English. 

Developed with licensee and fragrance manufacturer Euroitalia, the scents build on the brand’s first foray into beauty last year, when the Brunello Cucinelli pour Femme and Brunello Cucinelli pour Homme perfumes were launched. 

The new line is billed as gender-neutral, instead, and created in collaboration with six different master perfumers, including Daphné Bugey who was already the nose of the inaugural women’s scent.

This time, Bugey created Brezza Gentile, a blend of bitter orange, patchouli and Ambrox accord that she came up with when envisioning “a secret garden — a place of peace, beauty and harmony.”

“I imagined a garden that invites contemplation, introspection and meditation, and I discovered that such a garden exists in Solomeo, called the Garden of Philosophers,” said the nose about the fashion brand’s headquarters in Italy’s Umbria region. “I wanted to create a fragrance that reflects a rich inner life, a mysterious world, a place of retreat, introspection and meditation.”

Alberto Morillas wanted to evoke the feeling of “wearing a beautiful garment made of fine materials” in the Ombra Lirica scent instead, which mixes cedar and guaiac wood, oud and volcanic olibanum.

Other fragrances in the collection include Vie Eteree by Benoist Lapouza, a fresh juice combining Italian bergamot, citron and basil with cardamom and cedarwood; Soffio Zenit by Florian Gallo, evoking a Mediterranean summer with fig notes, rosemary and lavender; Sogno Notturno by Quentin Bisch, blending sandalwood and cumin with osmanthus and vetiver; and Vento Ardente by Jordi Fernandez, centered on a leather accord spiced up with saffron and pepper, among other ingredients.

“Brunello Cucinelli, like our company, is based on values including the constant search for artisanal excellence, love and respect for natural raw materials and the inspiration offered by an Italian lifestyle that exalts the beauty of nature,” said Euroitalia’s general manager Davide Sgariboldi.

In sync with the previous perfumes, all fragrances come in a classic glass bottle with aluminum caps and details, boasting a smooth surface and reminiscent of old-school colognes.

Each priced at 295 euros for the single 100-ml. format, the fragrances will first roll out in Italy starting next month and debut globally from 2025. Distribution will remain selective, with the collection mainly carried at Brunello Cucinelli stores and key perfumeries and department stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Harrods.

Sgariboldi said the distribution strategy is to replicate the rollout of the first launch, which saw the inaugural scents carried at 250 doors in Italy and roughly 300 doors abroad.

As reported, the deal between Brunello Cucinelli and Euroitalia was inked in 2020 but was kept under wraps until the launch of the first fragrances last year. 

Both companies were established in 1978. Listed on the Italian Bourse since 2012, the fashion brand founded by this year’s winner of WWD’s John B. Fairchild Honor registered a 12.4 percent increase in revenues to 920.2 million euros for the first nine months of the year, compared with 818.4 million euros in the same period last year.

As for Euroitalia, last year it registered record sales up 24.4 percent to 857.4 million euros compared to 2022. The fragrance manufacturer’s portfolio includes licenses for the likes of Versace, Michael Kors, Missoni and Dsquared2, as well as proprietary labels such as Naj Oleari Beauty and Atkinsons 1799. 

As reported earlier this year, as part of its restructuring plans, Moschino’s parent company Aeffe SpA sold the brand’s beauty business to Euroitalia for 98 million euros, transferring the ownership of branded products — mainly cosmetics, fragrances, scented candles, rooms and textile perfumes — hence terminating the existing licensing agreement between the two parties.