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The Brunello Cucinelli booth at Pitti Uomo appears to expand with each passing season. It’s now almost the size of a helipad, and why not, with 2024 revenues bucking the luxury market slowdown by growing 12%? Though the space was large, there was no missing a subtle deviation from his usual fifty shades of neutrals: a fitted corduroy blazer in a rich burgundy hue. “But it’s a dusty burgundy,” he clarified. “Note that it’s not bright, mi raccomando!”
Color was the new addition to an otherwise well-balanced Cucinelli collection, where changes are imperceptible and discreet yet so cleverly executed that the look feels unexpectedly fresh. Shades of amaranth, rouge, and radicchio, along with a spectrum of tonal blues and subtle variations of white (discernible only to the trained eye of a Cucinelli connoisseur), added a prudent visual punch to the spezzato—the artfully mismatched styling approach Cucinelli embraced this season that, roughly translated, means “broken.” “Wearing spezzato allows you to craft your own style by mixing old and new pieces,” he explained. “You can repurpose an old pair of trousers or a blazer, pair it with something new, and get creative while avoiding waste.”
The collection offered a wide array of appealing spezzato options, signaling a shift from the focus on coordinated suits and infusing it with dynamism and a youthful vibe, further amplified by the more vibrant color palette. Coats were largely swapped for sporty jackets in rich, smooth leather or sleeveless piumino waistcoats, casually worn over blazers. The silhouettes remained relaxed, with an air of well-curated insouciance; trousers were slightly softer, and rustic, chunky intarsia knitwear added an extra layer of visual appeal.
Balance is a word that comes up often in Cucinelli’s conversation; he has built his thriving business on an ethos of sustainable long-term growth, an ethos that he calls graceful or gentle. His company has remained largely untouched by the luxury slowdown impacting more powerful players; he’s optimistic and positive about the future of the category. “I believe that this is a moment not of difficulty but of re-equilibrium,” he ruminated. “The skyrocketing prices of fashion are alienating even the most wealthy clients, and unlimited growth isn’t sustainable. Luxury clients aren’t tired of being chic or buying fashion. They’re tired of not paying fair prices. We have to go back to a healthy growth and healthy quality. To revitalize luxury spending we need equilibrium, intelligence, and the human component.” For Cucinelli, paying attention to the condition of the soul has the same importance as (or more importance than) focusing on the quality of a cashmere jumper.
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