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Not every heritage fashion brand requires a drastic overhaul. At Dunhill, Simon Holloway is implementing what he refers to as “invisible innovation”—a method so understated that its impact may go unnoticed at first glance. However, his approach is rich in expertise, breathing new life into a brand that, after years of stagnation or failed, heavy-handed transformations, is now revitalized under the guidance of a more thoughtful vision. Extreme formality is so rare and unusual in today’s fragmented and disoriented fashion landscape that it feels paradoxically new. Holloway’s approach doesn’t seek cool insouciant subversion, rather he offers a reinterpretation of the house’s codes that’s not reverential, yet is rooted in continuity.
At a preview, he explained, “I wanted to take the collection more into a tailored but casual direction.” During a visit to the archive at Hampton Court Palace, he had the opportunity to closely examine pieces from the Duke of Windsor’s wardrobe. He learned that in the 1930s the Duke’s tailor, Frederick Scholte of Savile Row, introduced the English Drape—a softer shoulder design influenced by athletic tailoring, which the Duke famously embraced in his flamboyant tartan suits. Holloway noted that this sportier, more natural style aligns well with the roots of Dunhill’s clothing; he incorporated the construction throughout the collection, with subtle nods to the Duke’s eccentric sartorial flair.
Beyond His Royal Highness’s debonair influence—evident in a series of handsome smoking jackets in velvet, ancient madder silk, or wool twill, styled with the deliberate mismatched flair of an aristocratic British connoisseur—the collection focused on a fine selection of formal coats, blazers, and suits, crafted from high-end British traditional fabrics (Melton, Donegal tweed, wool whipcord, cashmere tartan) into lighter, bespoke versions, and beautifully tailored with a softer, more supple construction.
The show unfolded in the gilded salons of Circolo del Giardino, a venue known for hosting formal receptions. Guests enjoyed nibbles and champagne, served on nicely arranged small tables—ça va sans dire that it put everyone in a good mood after a long day of shows. When asked about his vision for Dunhill, Holloway said: “My intention was to make it feel as though this is how it has always been. If anything, I’ve leaned even further into that—my inspiration is truly Dunhill. Many of the coats in the collection draw directly from the original double-faced leather driving coat that Alfred Dunhill, the house’s founder, created 120 years ago.” It will be intriguing to watch Holloway, a skilled designer with a knack for fine tailoring and prestige fabrics, continue to settle into and shape his role.
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