Foot traffic and orders shrunk at many of SHFW’s showrooms, but China continues to be an opportunity for mega brands like Moncler. This was the first-ever Genius event outside of Europe: “I would say we need a global strategy but with a domestic approach,” said Ruffini. “Domestic means learning the different cultures around the world, and China is very important to us.” Ruffini said he visits the country every six months, and remains impressed by “how fast they are in everything; in mentality, culture, and fashion.” Moncler reported a double-digit growth among Chinese consumers in the first half of this year. “China is a very good market,” he added. “It felt like it was time to give back here, and not just in terms of the market.”
A highlight of the showcase was the Jil Sander collection by Luke and Lucie Meier. Despite Ruffini’s determination to move away from the traditional runway show, the designers staged a catwalk presentation every half hour from 6PM through 10PM. Inspired by nature, the lineup featured beautiful paper yarn feather-like textures, knitwear lined with down filling, double-faced wool pieces with removable down linings, and practically no logos other than the Moncler symbol utilized as jewelry and brooches. “We wanted to make it a collaboration but not compromise our design language,” said Lucie, with Luke adding, “we are quite happy because it feels organic and true to both brands.” That it did; it was a great Jil Sander collection, and a standout Moncler Genius one.
Back at the Rick Owens pavilion, which featured a scaffolded metal structure that models walked on with a tiny house on top, the designer said, “everything I’ve done with Moncler is about insulated aesthetics, because they’re all about insulation and protection. We have done a tour bus and a soundproof bed, and now we did a refuge.” It’s available for purchase, in fact. “I don’t like making stuff that isn’t available to people,” said Owens. “It’s technically a viable product.” Even more so were his remarkable puffer coats with structured shoulders and swirling or diagonal quilting.
A$AP Rocky’s collection, meanwhile, followed his current creative ethos of exploring “ghetto futurism.” In an interview, he said his goal was only to make clothes he would actually want to wear. While he himself was sporting Bottega Veneta, his Genius collection was well represented by Rihanna. In the center of the room sat a modular console of Rocky’s design with 14 different features, including an ashtray, a projector, and recording and music producing capabilities. It was, for lack of a better word, extremely cool.
The evening wrapped at an after-party with a performance by Rocky overlooking the Shanghai skyline. From start to finish, the event was astounding, and Ruffini only showed an appetite for more: “We’ve never been in the United States, for example,” he said tantalizingly. But what really impressed, in the end, was the fashion. Yes, Genius is a platform about creativity and expanding its boundaries, and yes, the industry has never been more interested in entertainment, but Moncler is still in the business of selling a good garment. Clothes are what Genius should keep in focus as it levels up further—wherever it is there is left to go.
