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Just as Ralph Lauren is the generation-spanning GOAT designer of American fashion, cashmere was the category-spanning GOAT material at this Purple Label presentation. The super soft wool was deployed to add both softness and lightness to paradigm pieces of country attire (thornproof tweed herringbone shooting jackets and caps, pulsating plaid sports jackets), opulent evening wear (which accounts for almost half of Purple’s tailoring business), and some fine après-ski lounge looks (bombers and track pants).
In his release quote, Lauren communicated that the 1994-founded label “has always been a way to express my vision of true luxury.” Here that vision moseyed from America’s mountain West to Cortina (the venue alongside Milan for next year’s winter Olympics), via asides in old Hollywood (Cary Grant suiting in multiple shades of navy) and Brideshead-refined countrywear (Lauren used the delicious word ‘rusticity’).
A waist-low shawl collar jacket in black suede lambskin was pieced together via hand-applied whipstitched leather cord, a process that took 60 hours. A silk jacquard waistcoat (with fob pocket) and evening jacket was decorated with leather tooling patterns. These pieces finely complemented the hand-hewn turquoise and silver bracelets, chains and pins made in collaboration with Neil Zarama (a citizen of the Chiricahua Apache Nation) as part of the company’s Authentic Makers program.
More Italianate winter wear included a leather-detailed loden jacket with patch pockets and a cream shearling duffle/parka hybrid that was as lushly luxurious as any homegrown montone you could imagine. Via that release, Lauren added: “It is about a world of warmth and sophistication, sartorial tailoring and modern silhouettes.”
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