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Based on the evidence of the spring show and this pre-fall collection, The Garment is coming into its own. The Copenhagen-based label was founded in 2020 by industry veteran Charlotte Eskildsen, who enlisted Sophia Roe’s help at the start. The influencer left after the spring 2024 show, and the designer’s since been flying solo but in good company: Members of the Danish royal family have been spotted at some of the shows.
Speaking of the spring 2024 collection, the bow details from it were transferred over to the backs of tops and jackets for pre-fall, much as the flowy organza tops that opened spring’s show were abbreviated here. Suffice it to say that Eskildsen takes an evolutionary approach to design. “It’s becoming a touchpoint for me to create something that I feel will last longer,” she said on a call. “I’m not that focused on what the new thing is…. I feel it’s time to carry on [things] that you paid a lot of effort into developing.”
The simplicity and definitiveness of the brand name suggest a focus on reimagined wardrobe pieces. (Eskildsen’s other B Corp–certified brand, founded in 2002, is called Designers Remix.) The focus of The Garment’s pre-fall was pairing “something really sheer and something really heavy together,” the designer said. So a semi-sheer shirt is partnered with a gray tailored suit featuring a bow detail on the breast pocket, and that suit jacket is shown later with a wisp of a chiffon skirt, while double knits are layered over a thin knit turtleneck. This collection also brings together French- and Scandi-girl styles. Eskildsen has a house in France near Fondation Maeght, which she says reminds her a bit of Denmark’s Louisiana. Taking inspiration from the colors of southern France, she’s come up with a collection that has polish and practicality.
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